Search forums. Log in. Install the app. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Thread starter eamckine Start date Nov 10, Conversely, triple-flange hoops will allow the drum to ring longer, produce more overtones, and yield greater snare sensitivity.
More flexibility and less overall material contacting the drum accounts for these differences. Wood hoops are another option and will generally warm up the sound of the drum and change the spectrum of overtones that it produces. Lug designs can have an impact on the overall sound of the drum, but not as much as they did in years past, due to advances in design. Tube lugs place less metal in direct contact with the shell than split or long lugs, thus improving sustain and providing a slightly different sound.
Other methods of tensioning a drumhead, such as rope systems, are used now and then, but tension rods are still the usual choice for drum designers. The rods themselves are fairly standardized, though DW uses a different thread count from everyone else, so be aware of this when selling replacement rods. These thin, fragile strands give the snare drum its characteristic sound by interacting with the snare-side head when the drum is stuck.
Drumset snare drums typically use snares made of coiled wire, also known as snappy snares. Marching and Scottish pipe band snare drums employ a synthetic gut wire made of plastic and sometimes include a second strainer that contacts the batter head for extreme snare response and a very dry sound.
This contraption holds the snares against the snare-side head and provides a means to finely adjust the wire tension. Trick, Ngage, DW, and Dunnett offer unique replacement strainers that can be easily retrofitted to most drums. These subtle yet crucial features are contours cut wood shells or bent metal shells into the bearing edge on the snare side of the shell to allow the wires to lay flat against the head. Without these, the snares would be buzzy and uncontrollable. Some snare beds, especially on vintage drums, are deeper than others.
While exact specs vary by manufacturer, all snare drums should include them. There is no shortage of options in this category, but here are a few guidelines that are helpful in suggesting the best heads for your musical and durability needs. Most players use either single- or double-ply coated batter heads on snare drums, while some prefer pre-muffled models to cut down on the need for dampening materials.
Muffling plays a key role in how the snare drum will end up sounding. There are many variations on the classic three-leg, basket-style snare stand, and some auxiliary snares come with L-arm-style mounting brackets. Positioning is very important to most players, as it helps them play consistently from gig to gig, so be sure to add a good-quality stand or mount when you purchase a new snare. Often featuring wood shells, these drums typically feature metal cable snares.
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Customer Login My Account. Show Now. Just double-checking my impression. And if that's true, would it be overkill to use re-rings on a birch snare? Thinking about a DIY project down the road. I wouldn't say it increases the attack, in my experiance reinforcement hoops make the drum sound more full and thicker.
As for the birch snare, the best sounding snare I have out of tama birch, tama bubinga, yamaha akira jimbo, yamaha jr, yamaha frp, ludwig supraphonic ect ect is a old olympic, 3 ply birch with thick reinforcement rings.
I have a wish-list of 3 snares I'd like to try to build sometime, and one of them would be a Keller thin birch shell with reinforcement rings and super hoops. I wouldn't think that the re-rings would necessarily change the profile of the bearing edge. The bearing edge is determined by the router bit and the rest of the wood just slopes away from the edge.
I wouldn't worry about putting them on birch - that should be fine. From my limited drum building experience, I would say that birch vs maple is not nearly as big a factor in drum sound as drum heads, snare wires, tuning, and shell depth. Just my 2 cents. Yes, I agree, thanks. I was thinking of the increase in the degree surface that the reinforcement ring would produce. I guess it would send more of the outer head vibration across the drum instead of down.
Ahhh, I see what you're saying. It'd be interesting to know what that actually does for the sound. I've often wondered what effect it would have to add different shapes to the inside of the drum. For example, what would happen if the side walls had hundreds of small facets?
Or what would happen if you placed a ring of soft, absorbant material around the inside of the shell? Either of those things, like your idea of a longer 45 degree area would change the way the sound waves flow inside the drum. But how much of that do we actually hear? If we cover the vent hole, does that remove this effect totally? Both of those have much broader degree surfaces.
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